02 v6 hard to start after re-fueling?
Call the dearler...its probaly the purge control sensor! Thanks....I had them replace purge control valve this past saturday...refueled last night and all was good
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Hey Amy==It's not very hard if you have any mechanical aptitude. First, take off the negative batery cable.Then takeoff the wires to the starter. Then the bolts holding the starter then work it out among the exhaust pipe. GoodluckJoe Amazingly taking off and putting on the starter on my 91 firebird… was the easiest ive had to take off in quite a while. You don't even need a 4-6 inch extension on your ratchet. The starter on the 3.4L V6 is easy to remove and install, the hardest part is unolting the manifold (MORE)
Answer catalytic converter efficiency below threshold. http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/TSB0197HO2SServiceTips.htm see web site for sensors locations, copy and paste website in address..... A code PO420, catalytic converter efficiency below threshold, is more likely an indication of a catalytic converter p…roblem, not the sensor. There are different codes that would indicate a sensor problem. However, it is possible that a sensor problem may be the cause of the catalytic converter code appearing. The sensors (newer cars have two or more) measure the differences between exhaust gas before and after the converter(s). Faulty sensors could indicate a faulty converter when it might be the sensors' bad measurements that are the cause. However, a faulty sensor should also generate a bad sensor code. Sometimes another indicator of a bad catalytic converter might be a vibration in the exhaust system near the converter caused by pressure in the converter or a breakdown of the honeycomb material inside the converter. (MORE)
Answer . You have a V6 engine, and thus have 6 cylinders. This means 6 spark plugs.
Where is and how do you change the fuel pump relay on a 1995 Lebaron V6 you changed the fuel pump but the car is still hard to start and stalls but will restart if it sits?
Answer . \nthat doesn't sound like the fuel pump relay...sounds like the fuel filter. look on the cross member immediately in front of the fuel tank
\n. \n Answer \n. \n. \nFuel injected.\n. \n Answer \n. \n. \nfuel injected. the 3.8 liter was never carb.. Answer . \nit was in the 80's in other GM vehicles
Answer . its the O2 sensor on the driver side above the catalytic. bank1 sensor 1 is the passenger side above the catalytic. bank2 sensor 2 is O2 below catalytic on driver side. bank1 sensor 2 is O2 below catalytic on Passenger side
Why would an 86 Century wagon v6 carburetor have a hard time starting when it is cold and why do you have to step on gas pedal to make the choke close?
Answer . There are "steps" on the choke cam that pull the gas pedal up to a high speed idle when the choke is on. If you don't step on the gas pedal once before starting, the carburator/choke assembly cannot function properly.
Answer . \nyou have 2 O2 sensors, an upstream O2 sensors located in front of the catalytic converter and the downstream is behind it either on the exaust manifold or the exaust manifold pipe
What might be the cause for 1995 ford Taurus with 3 Liter V6 and automatic transmission to feel slipping or sluggish when starting to shift from first to second then shifts hard when the gear changes?
Answer . The first thing I would do is change the transmission filter and fluid and have the transmission flushed. This is the cheapest thing you can do to remedy the problem, and it should be done every few years. I hope this helps you. Mark
Answer . \nIf you have a shop with the proper tools and machines it isn't very hard at all. \nI have done at least 15 Corsicas that needed new motor mounts, and with the help of a "Cherry Picker" or "Come-Along" it can usually be done within two days, if you are really experienced with doing it, …it can be done inside of a few hours...\nBUT without the proper tools to lift and hold the engine, I would not even try to attempt it.\n. \n-Kyle\firstname.lastname@example.org\nI run a small repair shop in my garage in Niagara Falls Ontario, and I specialize in the repair and maintenance of Chevrolet Corsicas, but I also do repairs on all other types of vehicles too. If you would like any info or help you can e-mail me any time at: email@example.com (MORE)
Answer . HOW LOW ON FUEL ARE YOU MEANING IF YOU ARE TALKING FUEL LIGHT LOW YOU ARE SUCKING GAS TANK SLUDGE
Answer . Could be as easy as a bad battery connection. Mine did the same thing. I would have occasional stall issues just out of the blue.It just kept getting worse over a couple of month time period until finaly it wouldn?t turn over anymore. I ended up replacing my ignition cylinder lock with p…ass lock sensor on my 2000. Not to be confused with ignition switch. Dealer says they replace a lot of the ignition cylinder locks. I guess the pass lock sensors go bad? Since pass lock sensor is part of the theft system and decides if your car ?should? be running or not. Usually the dealer will replace both the lock cylinder and the switch at the same time. This seems to be a dealer only item. Since the dealer has to reprogram your cars computer to accept the new lock cylinder. So far so good on mine anyway.. Rich. Something else to consider:. Also, check the Fuel Pump Relay. On most Oldsmobiles, these relays are located behind the right headlight. Often there are four or five of these and they use the same part number so you can exchange them with each other and likely move the problem to something else like the AC blower fan. If the engine is stalling, stalls or dies but will restart easily, the fuel pump relay is likely to be the problem. This problem can also show up if the engine tends to die on a right hand turn or when applying the brakes and comming to a normal stop. This usually will not happen during hard acceleration. This Fuel Pump Relay problem will not set any OBD or OBD2 codes for the computer.. This certainly applied to my 1996 Oldsmobile cutless ciera with the 3100 engine.. If the AC blower motor relay is bad, you will often loose the slower speeds for the fan. The high speed fan will work but nothing below that. Good Luck!. Mark, (MORE)
Grand caravan sport 3.3 V6 Check Engine on hard to start when cold and have to give it gas Runs fine after that?
Check the Grand Caravans choke system to see if its operatingproperly and EGR valve for a clog. One of these two areas could bethe starting problem.
Answer . \nYou'll have to change everything behind the grill, starting with the radiator. Different engine, transmission, driveline, all electrical and electronics/computer, fuel system, etc. etc. etc. It ain't gonna be easy. On the other hand, it's all designed to fit right in there asnd you ca…n probably pick up most of what you need at the wrecking yard or from a doner car for not much money. Have fun. (MORE)
Answer . \nyou can but you run the risk of screwin up everything in the car including internal components that aren't meant for the supercharger of an ls2 engine
Replace the fuel pump relay, the one inside the glove box, firstone on the left. If that relay fails, the engine will still startbut only after the engine is cranked over several times and oilpressure has come up.
Answer . i know of two on on the header pipes just before the catalytic converter i can't remember if there are more
Answer . You can put upto but no more then 5 quarts into the 2002-2005 Saturn Vue V6
\nDoes the check engine soon light come on? If so, have the computer scanned for trouble codes (for free at auto zone in the USA)\n. \nIf a spark control code comes up, try changing your crank position sensor.
Why does your 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser prado 3.4 v6 starts fine when its cold then its hard starting when its hot?
Hey how's it goin, the answer to your question has many possible answers, but the select few that are the most usual are 1. Clogged Air Filter 2. Your fuel may not be reaching the cylinders. 3. Worn Starter 4. Bad Engine Ground/ corroded electrical leads at the battery. hope this helps.… (MORE)
Answer . Usually under hood where the big black box that holds other fuses are. Turn the top over and it my show the diagrahm of the contence in side this is the only place i have ever found them on the drivers side ???
5 C's of Credit refer to the factors that lenders of money evaluate to determine credit worthiness of a borrower. They are the following:. 1. Borrower's CHARACTER. 2. Borrower's CAPACITY to repay the loan. 3. COLLATERAL or security/guarantee for the obligation. 4. Borrower's CAPITAL (business ne…tworth) or downpayment for the loan. 5. Present and anticipated CONDITIONS of the borrower, collateral, business, and the industry or economy in general (MORE)
Do you have power at the fuel pump relay test connection. do you have fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
88 ranger with spark and fuel and still wont starts but it acts like it wants to start it has a v6 2.9?
it could be an internal fuel tank connection or a fuel shut off sensor under passenger side feet. my 1986 ranger 2.9 ltr had an intermittent gas problem took tank down and reattached wires with a female to male connection inside the tank above fuel pump also replaced all fuel components while in the… tank as well as the other fuel pump both high and low pressure pumps (MORE)
There are a total of 4 O2 sensors 1 on the left AND right exhaust manifold 1 before the catalytic converter and 1 after it.
Yes, it is possible to force induce any car. If you were wondering if there were any kits for the '02 Eclipse GT, there are, look to the link I have attached for an example.
The intake plenum has to come off to get at the coil. Is that parts and labour? If so it's VERY fair.
A 2001 Honda Accord V6 may not start when the battery is bad, thereis no fuel, or the ignition system is defective. A bad starter willalso prevent the engine from turning over during starting.
There are approximately 4 oxygen sensors on a Chevrolet V6 truck.The oxygen sensors can be purchased at any auto parts store such asNAPA.
Most mechanics tend to go with OEM stock, so get AC Delco 41-921 double platinum and you can't go wrong..... So what if it cost you 10 bucks more for a pack of six for the next 60,000 miles !!!!! There is a spanish proverb that says: He who buys bad cloth, goes two times to the store.....
1990 Toyota truck 3L V6 why does power fail to the fuel pump after the ignition key returns from start to run?
The computer detects whether the engine is running and turns off the fuel pump in about five to ten seconds if the engine didn't start. If the engine starts and the fuel pump shuts off anyway, check for diagnostic codes, verify that the relays are working properly and check that the computer is ab…le to determine when the engine is running. BTW, it's probably NOT a problem with the computer. (MORE)
The Iphone 5C is Iphone 5Colorful 5c can also stand for thenumber 500 ("c" is the Roman numeral for 100) or for 5 degreesCelsius (centigrade) . +++ . "5c" can not stand for any Roman numerals forthree reasons. For a start you do not mix Arabic and Roman numeralslike that - it would be nonsensica…l. Secondly, the Roman for 100 is capital " C ", but thirdly, in the Romanscale, 5 is V, 50 is L and 500 is D. The ' C ' isalso capital for degrees Celsius / Centigrade. (MORE)
Transmission filter is usually under the transmission oil pan. If the vehicle does not have a transmission pan then it is probably a "non-serviceable" transmission, and it probably doesn't have a servicable filter.
1997 Chevrolet c1500 vortec v6 has not been started for 4 years new fuel pump gets fuel to carb tries to start but will not any ideas?
The three main factors in an engine being able to run are: fuel, air, and ignition. If your vehicle has been not been started in 4 years, you need to check all the possible sources, and start out with the basics. Check your spark plugs, if they look corroded, clean them up and put em back in. Tip: p…ull the plug wires off and let em just barely hang on the the plug, this makes the coil hit harder and can tell you if you have bad plug wires. Next, you say that it has a new fuel pump. I hope the new fuel pump is OEM or altleast meets OEM specs, because a number of aftermarket cheap fuel pumps just don't put out the pressures the system reqires. Tip: Try turning the key on and off and listen carfully for the fuel pump to turn on and off, do this 5 times or more and then try to start it. Do not continueously turn the engine over for more than a few seconds, all this will do is kill your battery and potentionally burn the brushes in the starter. I have a 2000 Chevy blazer with a Vortec V6, and I've had this same problem before. On your vehicle there may be fuel line toward the rear of the engine close to the fire wall, that has a red nipple over the pressure testing valve. This is a small valve with a regular stem just like any air stem valve. Try depressing this valve with your finger and see if you can relieve the system of any air and maybe a little too much fuel. Then try starting the vehicle. I did this after I installed a new fuel pump and after running in to the same problems, and I was eventually able to crank up. One more thing, since the vehicle has been setting for 4 years, check the in line fuel filter and make sure that it isn't plugged up with goop or rotted out inside. If it were, surely it wouldn't run. For anyone who else might ask, think about the environment the vehicle has been set up in, was it possible for rats or birds to possibley make a nest in the intake or intake manifold. I once pulled a small engine apart and found 3 dead burned up mice in the combustion chamber. (MORE)
If an online search has failed, then the diagram can be found in aservice manual. The manual may be available at your local library,or auto parts.
check your fuel sending unit...if its loud and noisy you may want to replace it.
Have 91 Toyota 4 Runner with V6 hard to start and only bearly runs for a few seconds with or without throttle pressed all the way down has new fuel pump filter plugs cap rotor?
Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run WHEN AN ENGINE WON'T START Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engin…e fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one? To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (Unusual noises slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem. If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history. STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key, check the battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested. If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there. A charging system that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures. If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit. Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem. ENGINE CRANKING PROBLEMS If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or jump start the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps. Measuring the voltage drop across connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening. Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps. If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage is not reaching the starter. The problem here is likely an open or misadjusted park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition switch, or a faulty starter relay or solenoid. Fuses and fusible links should also be checked because overloads caused by continuous cranking or jump starting may have blown one of these protective devices. If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter. Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system. If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps. A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines. An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature. A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up. A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings). If the starter motor spins but fails to engage the flywheel, the cause may be a weak solenoid, defective starter drive or broken teeth on the flywheel. A starter drive that is on the verge of failure may engage briefly but then slip. Pull the starter and inspect the drive. It should turn freely in one direction but not in the other. A bad drive will turn freely in both directions or not at all. ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit. Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness. If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced. If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination. ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter. On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank. There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem. On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning. Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking. ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression. If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons). Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change. With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked. A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine. (MORE)
Why will my 1991 Chevy Camero 3.1 v6 not start It has spark and fuel pressure also no electric to the injectors?
my 91 rs done that and the modole in the distrib was bad. got a new one and then the chip in the key went bad it would try to start and then go dead.call Chevy dealer with vin number and got the key code and went to napa for 20.00 got a new key copied and drove next day.hope this helps. PS. if modol…e is bad may not show codes up on self test. may have to put on computer test dinostics. (MORE)
You need fuel, spark and compression. You are missing one of those, probably fuel (bad fuel pump).
- fuel pump inertia switch " tripped " ( do you see a fuel reset light turned on in your gauge cluster ? ) - blown fuse for fuel pump / fuel pump relay - bad fuel pump relay - plugged fuel filter - bad fuel pump - wiring connection to fuel pump
When my '97 Dakota did that, I ended up replacing the idle air control valve. That cured it .................
Help troubleshooting my 93 s10 blazer With 4.3 v6 vortex running rough wont idle hard to start is it fuel filter plugs any suggestion?
it was runnin great. now it barely runs. i need some ideas of what it might be so i dont spend a ton of money guessing If you have a "check engine" light on, have the codes read. This may lead you to the problem.
I fought with this for a week recently, you have another underlying problem. Pluged air cleaner Disconected vacume line to fuel pressure regulator Bad plugs Bad cap and so on
For a 2002 Lincoln LS , 3.0 litre V6 engine : ( 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 ) It has the Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system with ( 6 ) individual coils The engine cylinder locations are numbered : firewall 3 - 6 2 - 5 1 - 4 front of vehicle
02 tacoma that wont start new fuel filter and has fuel to the throttle body will run if starting fluid then dies?
You have a fuel pressure problem it sounds like b/c you spray starting fluid & the car runs & then shuts off after the fluid has burned off. If you continued with this starter fluid - it would keep running. So if you had adequate fuel pressure - the car would run. Maybe faulty fuel pump or vacuum lo…ss in fuel system not allowing fuel to flow where it is needed. (MORE)
It has 2. An upstream or bank 1 sensor 1, and a downstream or bank 1 sensor 2. One on either side of the catalitic converter starting just below the manifold. The one nearest the manifold is bank 1 sensor 1.
It is on a flying lead and sits just behind the drivers side lower dashboard to transmission tunnel moulding , grab the wire loom and it will be attached to the end ..
My mechanic had to remove starter and O2 sensor to remove the pan on my 2001 flex fuel car. It costs me $300.00 at my guy. $300 is a little stiff but probably cheaper than a dealer.
5cc? cc means cubic centimetres which is equal to ml, so 5ml. if you mean cl, then that is equal to 50ml
According to the 2002 Ford Ranger Owner Guide ( for North America ) The 5 speed manual transmission takes : ( approximately 2.65 liters / 2.8 U.S. quarts of Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid )